Herculaneum: A Roman Town Frozen in Time

Herculaneum with Vesuvius in the background

Our third stop while in the port of Napoli was Herculaneum.  By the time we arrived in the afternoon, the rain had stopped and there were patches of blue sky in the distance. After the wet morning we’d had, it was a welcome change, especially since this was one place I really didn’t want to rush through.

We had visited Pompeii on an earlier trip to the area, so we had some idea of what to expect. But Herculaneum turned out to be quite different and, in many ways, even more incredible. As we walked through the ancient streets and looked into the buildings, it was easier to imagine what life might have been like here almost 2,000 years ago.

Herculaneum was a thriving Roman town on the coast of the Bay of Naples. Smaller than Pompeii, it attracted wealthy Romans who built homes here to enjoy the coastal setting and beautiful views.

That all changed in AD 79 when Mount Vesuvius erupted. The disaster destroyed both towns and buried them beneath volcanic material, preserving a remarkable snapshot of Roman life.

Although Pompeii is much larger, Herculaneum is particularly well preserved. It was buried beneath a deep layer of superheated volcanic material that hardened over time. The intense heat carbonised wooden objects rather than destroying them completely, while the thick deposits protected buildings and their contents. Wooden doors, furniture, staircases and even food have survived, giving us an unusual glimpse into everyday Roman life.

Gymnasium

Atrium of a house with marble lined basin used to collect rainwater

Colourful frescoes and columns in a home

The ancient town was rediscovered in the early 18th century, when tunnels were dug through the volcanic deposits. Systematic excavations began in 1738, although much of Herculaneum still lies beneath the modern town.

It’s remarkable to think that an event that brought such devastation also preserved so much of the past for us to see today.

Passageway through buildings

Stone-lined Basin in a courtyard

Grain Mills in a Bread-maker shop 

What struck me about Herculaneum was how intact so much of it seemed. Having visited Pompeii before, I found the two places quite different. Here, upper floors, staircases and other architectural details helped us picture how the buildings once looked and how people moved through their homes and neighbourhoods.

These three photos show the Male Baths

There were homes, shops, public buildings and baths, all offering a glimpse into the lives of the people who lived here. Some houses still have beautiful wall paintings and mosaics, while the remains of furnishings and other everyday objects make the experience even more fascinating.

There is also a sobering side to Herculaneum's story. Archaeologists discovered the remains of hundreds of people near the ancient shoreline, many of whom had taken shelter in vaulted chambers while apparently waiting for rescue. Their discovery is a stark reminder of the human cost of the eruption. This was once a living community, and its remarkable preservation came at a terrible price.

It is hard to imagine that a place so full of evidence of daily life could disappear beneath the earth for so many centuries. Yet here we were, walking its streets and looking into its homes, connecting with a world that existed long before our own.

Of all the places we visited that day, Herculaneum was one I was particularly glad we had made time for. Some places deserve more than a quick look, and this was definitely one of them.