Twillingate: Iceburgs, Hospitality, and Views

After leaving St. John's, with a quick stop in Gander along the way, we made our way to Twillingate. This was the place I had been looking forward to most. Even though it was my fourth visit, I couldn't wait to get back.

There's just something about Twillingate.

Spread across a series of islands connected by bridges and causeways, this historic fishing community sits along Iceberg Alley on Newfoundland's northeast coast. Every spring, massive icebergs break away from glaciers in Greenland and begin an incredible journey south. Carried by ocean currents, they drift for an average of two to three years before finally reaching the waters off Newfoundland, earning Twillingate the nickname The Iceberg Capital of the World.

But the icebergs are only part of what makes this place so special. 

Fishing stages still line the shore. Colourful houses dot the hillsides overlooking the harbour. Boats come and go throughout the day, and despite the number of visitors each year, Twillingate still feels like a real Newfoundland outport rather than a town built for tourists.

We spent two nights here during peak iceberg season, and it certainly lived up to our expectations.

Over those two days we spotted a few different icebergs. Every time we rounded a corner or looked out over the water there seemed to be another one hanging out in the water. I don't think any of us ever got tired of stopping the car to take "just one more picture."

We took a boat tour out among the icebergs, but that adventure deserves a post of its own.

Our first full day the weather threw us a curve ball and we were battling high winds and rain all day hampering any plans on getting outside and exploring.

Plan B saw us doing our best to avoid the weather.  We wandered through a few local shops, found a cozy café for coffee and something sweet, and simply enjoyed taking our time. 

That evening became one of the highlights of our stay.

Friends of my sister invited the four of us to their home for dinner. There's something special about being welcomed into someone's home when you're travelling. We shared a wonderful meal, and spent the evening laughing and listening to stories that made us feel like we'd known Ada and Eric for years instead of just a few hours.

I've said it before, and that evening only reinforced it - Newfoundlanders really are some of the warmest, most welcoming people you'll ever meet.

When people watch Come From Away, they often wonder if Newfoundlanders are really that friendly. After several trips here, I can honestly say they are. The kindness shown during those extraordinary days in Gander wasn't an exception. It reflects who they are every day.

By morning, the rain had moved on and we were greeted with much better weather.

Before leaving town, we stopped at Long Point Lighthouse. Built in 1876, it has watched over this rugged coastline for nearly 150 years. We wandered around the grounds for a while, enjoying the spectacular views and, of course, watching the icebergs sitting offshore. 

Before leaving the area, we hiked the Spiller's Cove Trail.

It isn't a long trail, but there are a few steep climbs that definitely make you earn the stunning view from the top. Every time I thought I’d reached the best lookout, another one appeared just a little farther up.

When I finally reached the highest point, I stood there for quite a while. Cliffs dropped into the Atlantic below, rocky shoreline stretched into the distance, and the ocean seemed to go on forever. The climb had been worth every step.

As we drove away from Twillingate, I found myself wishing we had more time to spend there.

Yes, we came to see icebergs, and they were every bit as spectacular as we'd hoped. But it's the feeling of the place that keeps drawing me back. The quiet harbours, the rugged coastline, the conversations with people who treat you like an old friend, and the slower pace of life all come together to make Twillingate somewhere I never seem to tire of.

Four visits later, it's still my favourite place in Newfoundland.