Newfoundland’s Ancient Fjords

Photo by Krista Kankula on Unsplash

There were a few experiences in Newfoundland that we knew we didn’t want to miss, and a boat tour through Western Brook Pond was one of them.

We had been watching the weather forecast carefully, especially after our last boat tour,  hoping to book our tour on one of the sunnier days. Unfortunately, by the time we were ready to make our reservation, there was only one sailing with space available.

We booked it and hoped for the best.

That meant an early start. We arrived at the Western Brook Pond parking lot around 8:00 a.m. so we could catch the shuttle golf cart to the dock. Although many people enjoy the three-kilometre walk, we knew it would have been challenging for my sister, so the shuttle was the perfect option.

We arrived with plenty of time to spare, which gave us the chance to relax with a hot cup of tea and a warm pastry before boarding the boat.

It was a nice, quiet start to the morning.

Despite its name, Western Brook Pond isn’t actually a pond at all. It’s one of the largest freshwater fjords in North America.

Millions of years ago, glaciers carved this deep valley, and when the ice melted, it filled with seawater, as with other fjords. As the enormous weight of the glaciers disappeared, the land slowly rebounded and rose. Eventually, the outlet to the ocean became blocked, cutting the fjord off from the sea.

Over time, rain, snow, and streams gradually replaced the saltwater with fresh water, creating the spectacular freshwater fjord we see today. The cliffs surrounding the fjord rise as much as 600 metres (2,000 feet) above the water, making them some of the highest in eastern North America.

Before long, it was time to board.

As the boat quietly pulled away from the dock, we realized we had been incredibly lucky with the weather. The sun was shining, the water was calm, and the clouds held off just long enough for us to enjoy what turned out to be the nicest part of the day. It wasn’t until we were making our way back to the dock that the sky began to cloud over.

The farther we travelled into the fjord, the more spectacular the scenery became.

Towering cliffs rose straight out of the water on both sides of the boat. Waterfalls tumbled down the rock faces, and every turn seemed to reveal another breathtaking view.

As beautiful as the photos are, they simply don’t capture the scale of it. You don’t really appreciate how enormous the cliffs are until you’re out on the water looking up at them.

Our guides were excellent.

Throughout the tour, they shared stories about the history of the area, explained how the fjord had been formed, pointed out waterfalls and other interesting features, and answered questions along the way. They were knowledgeable, entertaining, and clearly loved what they did.

On the return trip, the mood on the boat became even more relaxed.

Traditional Newfoundland music began playing through the speakers, and before long the crew was passing around a pair of spoons, encouraging anyone who wanted to give Newfoundland spoon playing a try. It wasn’t quite as easy as it looked!

It was such a fun way to end the tour and one of those little moments that made the experience even more memorable.

The weather had worked out perfectly, the scenery had exceeded every expectation, and we had just spent the morning surrounded by one of the most beautiful landscapes in Canada.