Driving the Irish Loop

We spent a couple of days exploring the area around St. John’s, known as the Avalon Peninsula, before it was time to move on.

The Avalon Peninsula occupies the southeastern corner of Newfoundland and is where most visitors begin their travels around the province. It's a place of rugged coastlines, tiny fishing villages, dramatic cliffs, historic lighthouses, and enough ocean views to keep you reaching for your camera all day long.

One of the drives we enjoyed most was the Irish Loop.

The Irish Loop is a scenic route that circles the southern portion of the Avalon Peninsula, winding through small coastal communities that were settled primarily by Irish immigrants centuries ago. The road hugs the coastline for much of the journey, and we found ourselves pulling over frequently just to admire the scenery.

Ferryland Lighthouse

The community of Ferryland is one of the oldest European settlements in North America, dating back to the early 1600s. In fact, long before St. John's became the province's capital, Ferryland was an important colonial outpost. Today, visitors come for both the history and the stunning coastal scenery.

The lighthouse sits on a headland overlooking the Atlantic and requires about a 1.5-kilometre walk along a trail to reach it. The walk itself was pleasant enough, but unfortunately the bugs were out in full force that day. They followed us along the trail and seemed determined to join us at the lighthouse as well.

Despite the persistent bugs, the views were beautiful. We could see the rugged coastline stretching in both directions and the Atlantic rolling endlessly toward the horizon.

The lighthouse itself dates back to 1870 and served as an important navigational aid for ships travelling along this section of Newfoundland's coast. Today it is best known for its spectacular location and the famous lighthouse picnics offered there during the summer months.

We found a spot and stayed for a while, swatting bugs and admiring the view. The bugs may have won the battle that day, but the scenery made the walk worthwhile.

St. Vincent Beach

This beach is known as one of the best places in Newfoundland to spot whales from shore. The water drops off quickly just offshore, allowing whales to come surprisingly close to land. We arrived hopeful and spent some time scanning the water.

Sadly we didn’t see any whales, so we were rather disappointed.The follow picture is just for reference - it is not mine (thank you ChatGPT)

Even without the whales, the beach itself was worth the stop. The long stretch of pebble beach and the crashing waves made it a beautiful place to spend a little time.

Running the Goat

One of the highlights of the day wasn't a famous attraction at all.

In Tors Cove, we stopped at a small bookstore and printing press called Running the Goat.

What began as a quick stop turned into a much longer visit. The young fellow who was working in the shop was incredibly friendly and easy to talk to. We spent quite a while browsing the books, chatting, and learning a little about the business.

I often find that it's these unexpected moments that stay with me long after a trip is over. The scenery is wonderful, but it's the people you meet along the way who often make the biggest impression.

La Manche Suspension Bridge

The trail is about four kilometres round trip and follows part of the East Coast Trail. The hike is considered moderate, and there were certainly a few sections that got our attention. One steep section in particular had us carefully picking our way down, knowing we'd eventually have to climb back up.

Still, it was worth every step.

The suspension bridge crosses a deep river gorge and stands on the site of a former community that was abandoned after a devastating storm in the 1960s. All that remains of that village today are some stone foundations and a grave stone.

Standing on the bridge, we could look one way and see a pretty waterfall cascading below. Looking the other direction, we could see the coastline and the Atlantic beyond.

The views were worth every step it took to get there.

Petty Harbour

Just a short drive from St. John's, Petty Harbour is one of those picturesque fishing villages that seems to appear around every corner in Newfoundland. Colourful buildings cling to the hillsides while fishing boats bob in the harbour below.

We spent some time wandering through a shop before making our way down to the waterfront.

There wasn't anything particularly exciting happening. Boats sat quietly in the harbour. People went about their day. The ocean rolled in and out.

We spent some time watching the boats and enjoying the views before eventually heading back to our Airbnb.

Sometimes the most memorable stops can be the unplanned stops.  Has that ever happened to you on a road trip?