An Early Morning Surprise in Gros Morne
One morning, we were up early hoping to spot a moose. We'd been told that dawn was one of the best times to see them along the roads in Gros Morne National Park. We’d only seen one so far on this trip and were hoping for more. We climbed into the car, bright and early, with our cameras in hand, scanning both sides of the highway as we drove.
The moose, however, were nowhere to be found.
When we noticed a small pull-off at Martin's Point, we decided to stop for a few minutes. Maybe we'd have better luck there.
Instead, we found a beautiful rocky beach overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Since it was so early we had it entirely to ourselves.
As we wandered toward the shoreline, we noticed large pieces of rusted steel lying among the rocks and just offshore. They were the remains of the SS Ethie, a coastal steamship that once carried passengers, freight, and mail to communities along Newfoundland's west coast.
In December 1919, the Ethie was caught in a fierce winter storm. With heavy seas and ice building up on the ship, Captain Edward English made the difficult decision to run her aground at Martin's Point rather than risk the ship sinking offshore. It proved to be the right decision. With the help of local residents, a line was stretched between the ship and the shore, and all 92 passengers and crew were brought safely to land. It's one of Newfoundland's best-known shipwreck stories, and over the years it has become part of local folklore, with tales of heroic rescues that are still shared today.
More than a century later, nature has slowly reclaimed the wreck. Some sections of the ship rest on the beach while others sit just beneath the water, a reminder of the dramatic events that unfolded here so many years ago.
While we were exploring the wreckage, we were treated to an unexpected wildlife show.
Several seals were playing just offshore, bobbing up and down in the water as if they were keeping an eye on us. Every time one disappeared beneath the surface, another would pop up somewhere else. We stood there watching them far longer than we had intended.
Then we spotted a couple of minke whales farther out. They surfaced quietly before disappearing beneath the water again, giving us just enough time to appreciate that they were there.
With no one else on the beach, the whole experience felt almost surreal. The only sounds were the waves rolling over the stones, the cries of seabirds overhead, and the occasional splash from the seals. .
We never did see a moose that morning.
But if we had, we might never have pulled into Martin's Point. Instead, we discovered a quiet beach with a fascinating history, watched seals at play, spotted minke whales in the distance, and enjoyed one of the most peaceful mornings of our trip.
Have you ever stumbled upon a place that wasn't on your itinerary but ended up being one of your favourite memories?





No moose, but you got a shipwreck, seals, and minke whales. That is a pretty good trade, Barbara. The part that stuck with me is the captain running the Ethie aground on purpose. He had a bad storm on him and decided that wrecking his own ship was the way to get everybody off alive, and all 92 of them made it. That took some nerve. And you only found the story because the morning did not go the way you planned. Some of the best mornings work out like that.
ReplyDeleteI've seen moose out in Wyoming, but be glad you got to see the other things. They're much more interesting. Moose are big and I wasn't looking for them it was just that they were swimming where I was. And reading your posts I keep thinking I've got to get up to Newfoundland. It's one of the few spots in Eastern Canada that I have not been to - [that and PEI ]
ReplyDeleteThese are interesting photos you posted here... the heavy and rusted metals, and of course, the seals! Thank you for sharing this piece.
ReplyDeleteWell you might not have seen a moose but looks like an awesome adventure with all the seals and whales plus seeing the shipwreck! What a sight everything was.
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